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Each year we think of a number of
things that could be included in the newsletter but don’t make it, either
because they are not sufficient for a full article or because they just don’t
seem to have an appropriate place in that issue. We offer them here as a hodge-podge of helpful suggestions or
answers to questions frequently asked here at Dogwood Farm.
Mulch:
We use double
shredded hardwood mulch obtained from Baird’s Sawmill located north of
Rockville on SR 41. It is
reasonably priced and very effective. Our
friends Bob and Sally Murphy, who grow incredibly wonderful specimen hostas,
display their plants in gardens mulched with crushed coconut shells, wonderful
background for the individual plants as well as effective mulch, but very
expensive. We hear good reports
about pine needles as a mulch for hostas if you can find a local source.
We occasionally use the coarsely chopped mulch from tree trimming, but it
robs the soil of oxygen in its breakdown, can introduce unwelcome pests, and in
wet spring weather creates a bad odor. Cypress
mulch that is sold in bulk at gas stations and convenience stores is another
mulch that contributes to oxygen depletion as it breaks down.
Garden Hygiene: We have become increasingly aware of the advantages
of good garden cleaning at the end of the growing season.
We used to leave plant material in our beds thinking it provided compost
for our plants. However, it also
contributed to bumper crops of slugs and other problems that led us to begin
raking our gardens and even surface burning when possible.
This helps to eliminate slugs and their eggs as well as other pests in
the garden.
Great Garden Tool: We received a great garden tool in
the 1997 Hosta Society Christmas Exchange, but unfortunately we didn’t get
two. Becky started the season
with a Japanese Garden Knife that proved to be one of our prized tools for the
year. This unassuming little wooden
handled knife with a 6” blade is the best weeder ever!
We were continually pulling it out for one job or another throughout the
season, and Bob finally got his very own as a birthday gift—from Becky!
We have seen them in A.M. Leonard (800-543-8955) as a Soil Knife for
$23.66.
Garden Carts:
Many of
you are familiar with our garden carts here on Dogwood Farm.
We started with two large (and expensive) ones and last year added 4
smaller ones that a friend found for us through Harbor Freight (800-423-2567).
We bought four because we were so pleased with the smaller versions both
in size and cost. They are 6.5
cubic feet, with dimensions of 50” L x 30”W x 23 1/2” H.
They have galvanized metal handles at the top of the cart and
semi-pneumatic tires. They cost
$69.95 + $4 for handling and are mailed US Postal Service in two boxes.
Bob advises painting the wood sections before assembly and drilling a
hole for an additional screw to hold the gate more securely.
They held up well to weather and heavy use here at the farm last summer
and fall.
Garden Markers: Visitors often ask about our plant markers in the
display gardens, and experience has taught us that not all plant markers hold up
well here at the farm. We highly
recommend the E series of nursery markers from
Eon Industries, 107 W. Maple St.
PO Box 11, Liberty Center, OH 43532-0011.
You must buy in quantities of 100, and they come in 3 heights—10”,
15”, and 20”. The metal plate has holes through which the standards slide.
We then use a Brother Label Maker with 1” white tape to stick on to the
flat metal plate. As a service to customers who need smaller quantities,
we’ll sell them at the Nursery this year in packages of 25 for $9.
Soaker Hoses:
Many of
you have noticed how extensively we use soaker hoses in the display gardens.
Having used them for more than 10 years, we continue to believe that they
are the most economical and effective way to water large perennial beds.
First, they put the water on the plant’s root system, not its foliage.
Secondly, they don’t require special maintenance each year.
Thirdly, they can be used during the daytime when we are open for
visitors without giving everyone a shower!
Lastly, they have proved long-lasting;
we are only now replacing ones purchased six years ago.
We do have some warnings: (1)
buy good quality ones with high quality hardware at the ends.
We bought some bargain ones at Sam’s Club last year and had to replace
the connectors on every one of them. (2)
Don’t exceed 100’ in total length of the hose to be used at any one
time. (3) Use 1/3 pressure when
watering but leave them on for a period of 2-4 hours.
Ivies in Zone 5 Gardens:
What began as an audacious risk in our gardens turned out to be a
pleasant surprise. When Bob
finished the pond and began planting the garden around it, he wanted some ground
cover that would provide textural contrast to the hostas. It was early summer, and he purchased several greenhouse
ivies offered among the houseplants at a large garden center.
None of the small potted plants cost more than $2, and we fully expected
they would die each winter. That
winter we gave them a layer of garden guilt on the off chance that with a mild
winter some might survive. To our
amazement, all but one variety returned the next spring.
This year is the 4th winter for the ivies by the pond.
They have proven to be one of our best plant investments.
Crown
Rot Remedies:
Sometimes
after the onset of hot weather, hosta growers will find a plant that begins to
look sickly. Hosta leaves around
the edge of the plant will begin to turn yellow
They turn limp and, if tugged gently, easily pull off.
Closer examination reveals mushy plant tissue and what appear to be
white or brown mustard seeds. Many
Midwest growers now believe these symptoms indicate a form of Southern
Blight. Cleaning off damaged tissue
and treatment about 3 times through the growing season with a fungicide like
Benomyl, Capstan, or Terrchlor is
the best response.
If you do not
wish to use chemicals, try sprinkling Comet cleanser with bleach around the base
of the plant. If you prefer, a 10%
solution of bleach water sprayed on the plants crown is another attack.
Southern Blight does often return
and treating the soil area infected
with fungicide for a period of 3 years does seem to save plants and prevent
recurrence of the problem.
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